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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect well-known high-end venues. However, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The accolade has left the family totally shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks a family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.